Day Seventeen (Mon) - Vancouver, B.C.

After meeting for breakfast at the food court underneath our hotel --- we arrive at the Hop On/Hop Off bus stop. 

Today we are taking the red line to Stanley Park -- a Canadian National Historic site of 1 million acres in Vancouver -- leased by the city from the Canadian Government for $1 per year.  It includes a rain forest, playgrounds, gardens, historic sites,  bike and hiking trails throughout with minimal roadways.   Stanley Park officially opened in 1888 -- this is their 125th anniversary year.

We first stop to wander through the Rose Garden with over 3500 plants then across the road to the Shakespeare Garden which in addition to some wonderful plantings includes 45 trees -- all mentioned in The Bard's plays and poems.  Just adjacent is the Stanley Park Pavilion -- site of many weddings and events as well as a restaurant open to the public. 

The next stop is "Legends of the Moon" -- a display of iconic totem poles representing "First Nation" groups from all over British Columbia.  Within walking distance is the Brockton Point lighthouse and part of Vancouver's extensive sea wall.   We spend about an hour here enjoying the landscape, walking to the lighthouse and trying to interpret the totem poles. 

Our third stop is Prospect Point for a close-up view of the Lions Gate Bridge and a far-off view of Cypress, Grouse and Seymour mountains --- all peaks are visible today.   

Sights as we ride through the remainder of the park include:  Hollow Tree which has been  dead for 200 years.  When the park tried to remove it "The Hollow Tree Society" was born and the tree remains -- shored up with lots of bracing.  Apparently years ago -- probably during the 1960's -- it was the fashion to park a Volkswagon Bug inside the tree.  The bus stops at the Tea House -- another restaurant -- we enjoy the view of English Bay with  empty freighters parked and waiting to be loaded -- as well as the golf course and lawn bowling course next to the Tea House.  

Back in the city -- hunger sets in.   We get off the bus in Yaletown -- a refurbished warehouse area on the water -- to seek out a place for lunch.  The Hurricane Grille gets the nod -- it is very good.

Phil walks back to check out a particular restaurant for dinner --- Patte and Dave go back to the hotel and I get off the bus in Library Square.   The Vancouver Public Library is interesting and busy -- 7 stories of patrons bustling about or hunkered down reading and studying -- great atmosphere.   I tour all seven floors of the library before walking to the hotel via Robson and Granville Streets (the shopping area) --- I do love the energy of this city.

Phil has made dinner reservations at Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House at 7 pm.  The walk takes less time than expected -- we are seating on arrival.  It is noisy but energetic and we either get used the noise or the place calms down -- not sure which.

Cole is our excellent waitress --- Patte and Phil enjoy the shellfish --- either raw or steamed and Dave and I find other things more palatable.   It is a very good meal --- we have been fortunate with our restaurant choices -- thanks to Phil's diligent research.

It is another glorious evening to walk after dinner  ---- and to enjoy this marvelous city.

Home tomorrow!

Thanks for Reading!


Pat

Day Sixteen (Sun) -- Vancouver, BC

Up at 6:30 am -- breakfast in Lido -- then the waiting game begins until our group is called to disembark.  

We are off the ship a little past 9 am --- walk to the Pan Pacific Hotel where we will stay for two nights -- rooms not ready -- check our hand luggage and by 10:25 we are on the Hop On/Hop Off bus.  Our driver, Ross, is good and knowledgeable --- providing an overview of downtown Vancouver.  Our destination is Granville Island -- particularly their public market which is open 7 days a week.

"Where in Vancouver can you find a concrete mixer vying for space with a baby stroller on a street with no sidewalk, a stone's throw from silk weaving and yoga studios, where dragon boats fly past the window?"    This paragraph opens an article entitled "Uncovering Granville Island's Unique Character"  -- and pretty much sums up this unusual city spot that is popular with everyone.  

We stroll around the food market which has so many tempting items from pastries to produce with spices and cookware mixed in.   The smells are wonderful -- the place is packed.   We continue popping in and out of shops -- many showing the wares of local artisans.  

Before we know it -- it is time for another meal -- remember we are still used to the cruise ship.  The Keg Steakhouse & Bar beckons -- it has the requisite flat screen TV's so Phil and Dave can stay up to date on the football games -- and the food is good. 

Back on the Hop On/Hop Off -- we continue with another driver for our tour of the city.  Our destination is Chinatown -- the largest in Canada.  I still like San Francisco's Chinatown the best.

We keep walking passing through  "Gas Town" -- the oldest section of Vancouver which now has lots of coffee shops, bars, restaurants and shops -- pretty soon we are back at the hotel ready for a rest.  The rooms are ready.  Phil and I are on the 15th floor looking over the harbor and the Statendam docked just below.   We can see the pool and the terrace where there are preparations for a wedding going on.  It is fun to watch from this vantage point.   After a few hours getting settled and resting -- we're off along the sea wall to our dinner destination chosen by Phil.  

There is so much activity along this waterfront from sea planes to people to houseboats.    We arrive at Cordero's Restaurant and Marine Pub --- a large barn-like sturcture from the inside but it does not appear that the building is more than 30 years old.  Perhaps it was built to look like a boathouse.  At any rate -- it is a good place. Our waitress, Barbara,  is very efficient alerting us to the fact that they are backed up in the kitchen -- she is on top of everything.  

We end the evening with a walk back to the hotel on this beautiful evening -- resisting the urge to stop at one of the many ice cream shops along the way.

A wonderful day in Vancouver.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Fifteen (Sat) - On Statendam - Cruising Inland Passage

We lost an hour last night -- now on Pacific Time.  This is our last day on the Statendam -- but it is a busy one.   

After breakfast --  packing begins --  then to the Mariner's Brunch.  Passengers who have taken previous cruises are called Mariners -- there are perks associated with the number of cruises taken with Holland America.  However passengers with no previous history with Holland America are in attendance as well -- go figure?  The brunch was not that great -- in fact Phil took one look at the limited menu and left to eat upstairs in the Lido.

The day is foggy so unfortunately there are no sightings of wildlife -- which would normally occur as we glide through the Inland Passage off the coast of British Columbia.

Patte and I have signed up for a 5K walk around deck six (13 times around the deck) -- the walk benefits breast cancer.   It felt good to get some exercise.   We finish in record time thanks in part to Julie -- a young woman from Ohio traveling with her 7 year old son.  Julie is much younger --- she keeps our pace up.  Dave cheers us on -- and take photos.

About 7 pm -- we meet Patte and Dave in the Crow's Nest as the fog lifts.  Just as we are leaving to go to dinner --  dolphins are spotted off the side of the ship.   There are hundreds of dolphins -- they seem to like the wake the ship produces.   It is such fun to watch them as they dive in and out of the water traveling along beside us.   

The six of us meet for dinner in Caneletto -- a section of the Lido transformed into an Italian bistro.   It is great -- service is good -- our meals are good -- the wine is good -- the company is good -- what more can we expect for our last night on board.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Fourteen (Fri) -- Ketchikan, AK

Up at 6:30 am -- walked around for one mile on deck six (4 times equals 1 mile) before breakfast in the Lido -- due to arrive in Ketchikan about 11:00 am.   

Patte has signed up for the Zip-Line Excursion -- she is very brave.   Dave, Phil and I will walk around Ketchikan -- huge changes here since 1999  -- more than Juneau.   Our first stop is the Creek Street area --- the red light district from 1903 (when more than 30 brothels lined the creek) until prostitution was outlawed in 1953. We tour Dolly's House -- owned by Dolly Arthur, Ketchikan's most famous madam -- this house looks just like Dolly left it when she moved into a nursing home in 1973.  It was fun to tour but a bit of a rip-off at $10 each for a ten minute tour-- for which they also expected tips.  

Our next stop is the Creek Street Funicular (tram) to the Cape Fox Lodge -- Phil and I had lunch here in 1999 when it was the Westmark.   It looks pretty much the same.   Behind the lodge there is a  "Council of the Clans"  -- a Totem Circle created and carved by a native Alaskan which represents the culture of the Northwest Coast peoples.  The significance of totem poles is very interesting and I'd like to learn more about what they mean.

We stroll back to the ship for lunch -- stopping in a few shops.   After lunch Phil and I go across the street from the ship to the "49er Bar" which advertises free wifi.  We get caught up on e-mails -- and I on the blog.   We have a nice chat with the bartender about all the changes that have occurred in the last several years.

Dinner at the Rotterdam Dining Room -- we hear all about Patte's Zip-Line adventure.  Service at dinner very very slow -- we've noticed that quite a bit on this cruise.  It appears there may not be enough help on board. 

We have another good day!

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Thirteen (Thurs) -- Juneau, AK

My cold seems to be getting better so I attend the 7 am stretch class --- after breakfast we are off the ship by 8:45 am.

Juneau has become considerably more commercial since Phil and I were here in 1999.   Shops galore all selling the same "junk" for big bucks.    After a spin through the shopping area -- where Patte bought salmon to ship home -- we explored the older sections of town which are quite a climb up the mountain.

Juneau was founded by two prospectors -- Richard Harris and Joe Juneau -- who in 1880 with the help of Tlingit Chief Kowee discovered gold and the state's first major gold strike.   Harrisburg was the original name until Richard Harris fell out of favor with the locals -- they turned their allegiance to his co-founder, Joe Juneau.    This capital of Alaska is built on the side of a mountain with no roads in or out of the city --  the only way to get here is by boat or plane. The capital building was built in 1931 as a federal building -- currently there is extensive renovation going on to the facade particularly the columns at the front door.

We keep climbing along Seward Street -- up to 5th St. where St. Nicholas Orthodox Church -- built in 1894 -- is located.  It has a gold onion dome and is the oldest Russian Orthodox Church in Alaska.   Just a couple of doors away is the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary -- it is the smallest cathedral we have ever seen.  This is the seat of the Diocese of Juneau which stretches from Yakutat in the north to Ketchikan in the south.

At this point Phil and Dave go their own way. Patte and I keep climbing up to 7th Street to view the House of Wickersham -- home of Judge Wickersham, a leading proponent of statehood and an architect of Alaska's Territorial legal system.  This Victorian house was purchased by the Judge in 1928 and is located on "Chicken Ridge" -- a very tony section of Juneau even with the odd name.  The house looks just as it might have went Judge Wickersham and his family lived here -- with a fabulous view of the harbor.

Our last stop is the Governor's House -- built in 1912 for $40,000.  It is 14,000 square feet with 35 rooms (10 bedrooms, 6 bathrooms, 8 fireplaces).  The totem pole outside has been there since 1939 ----- it tells the story of the mosquito's origin.

We have seen some of Juneau's history --- so Patte and I split up.   I pop into a couple of antique stores but nothing hits my fancy.  After lunch I go to the library -- five floor walk-up on top of a parking garage -- with free, fast wifi.   I get I caught up on the blog postings --  I have my own private carrel -- and it is so quiet.  

Back on board -- Patte, Dave, Phil and I sit at the Crow's Nest (lounge at top of ship) -- enjoying the view as the Statendam leaves Juneau enroute to Ketchikan.

For dinner we are in the Pinnacle Grille -- which is "transformed" into Le Cirque -- what a disaster.  It started alright but the service went steadily downhill. The menu was limited to say the least.   Patte, Dave and I got a chicken dish that did not even come close to waiter's description and was much less than ordinary.  Sharon, John and Phil were pleased with their meals.   However -- the service was terribly slow with no apparent reason.   

After dinner we wandered up to the Lido to view the "Dessert Extravaganza"  -- the pastry and desert chefs displayed their best creations for everyone to share.

Another good day!

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Twelve (Wed) - Haines & Skagway, AK

The ship is docked in Haines -- which is quite small and has nothing of interest.  We have made arrangements to take the fast ferry to Skagway about 14 miles north by water.

It is a nice ride -- about 45 minutes.   We go right to the National Park Service Visitor Center and sign up for the 11 am walking tour.   Skagway is much more commercial than when Phil and I were here in 1999 -- lots of shops with all the same stuff.   

It is a cute town with wooden sidewalks and apparently the National Park Service is buying buildings and restoring them.   They have done so with the Mascot Saloon in operation from 1898 to 1916.  The Mascot closed after a new Skagway law banned the sale of all but medicinal alcohol.  It was one of the first permanent structures in Skagway replacing the Tent City of 1897.   The home of the Moore Family is another property restored by the National Park Service including their original log cabin which sits next door to their Victorian home.   

After our tour -- it was time for lunch.  We spotted a place which looked local -- The Station at the Morning Wood Hotel.  It was excellent.  One of the waitresses noticed Dave's Red Sox hat and stopped at our table to see if we were Bostonians.  She is originally from just north of Boston --- has been in Alaska for many years --- but she said there are many die-hard Red Sox fans in these parts.

We make the 2:00 pm ferry back to Haines -- really windy so it takes a little longer.   Skagway was also very windy.   

Back on the ship we have some good reading and relaxing time before dinner at 8:00 pm.

Another good day.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Eleven (Tues) - Cruising Glacier Bay

Another day at see but today the Statendam is cruising through Glacier Bay -- which is a National Park.  A Park Ranger is on board narrating and available to answer questions.

I was up half the night coughing (poor Phil) -- so I purchased some cough syrup on board for $18.00 and at 9:30 am I took a swig -- and slept all day long.  I got up about 4pm - starving -- went up to the Lido and I had the best grilled cheese and tomato sandwich -- tasted so good.

Apparently while I was sleeping Patte and Phil participated in an event during which they both jumped in the pool outside in the freezing cold.   Dave took pictures to prove it.  I include them here.

Dinner tonight in the Rotterdam Dining Room -- Sharon joins us -- she is feeling better.  It was nice to have all six of us at the table.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Ten (Mon) - On Statendam

Slept until 6:30 am -- on this Labor Day.   All four of us went to Mass at 8 am -- since there is a priest on board there will be daily Mass.

Up to the Lido for breakfast -- John joined us -- Sharon still resting her back.  I just started reading a biography of Julia Child called "Dearie" - it is terrific but long -- hope I can finish it before I get off the ship.  This was a true day of rest for all of us.

Dinner tonight is in the Pinnacle Grille at 8 pm --- just five of us Sharon still down.  The meal and the service are terrific.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Nine (Sun) -- Alyeska to Seward--onto Statendam

We are on the move again -- up by 6 am -- bags outside door by 8 am -- breakfast at Starbucks and by 9 am we're on the bus to Seward.  This time Kyle is behind the wheel -- another great Alaska bus driver.

We are going to the Kenai Peninsula -- known as "Alaska's Playground".  Here are some facts we learned from Kyle:    10 % of the wold's known volcanoes are in Alaska --- Alaska and Chile are the most active places for seismic activity in the world -- "Perma Frost" is a condition that is everywhere in northern Alaska and spotty in southern Alaska:   typically 4 to 6 feet below the surface -- it stunts tree growth since it limits root growth -- Alaska's state flower is: "For Get Me Not" -- less than 1% of Alaska's land is developed -- in Seward sunny weather is called "cloud failure".

We arrive in Seward at 10:55 am -- and are ushered immediately onto a vessel which departs the harbor at 11:30 am.   It is the Aialik, a catamaran,  where for 6 hours we will be on the water looking at glaciers and hoping to spot wildlife.

We have a wonderful trip -- better than I expected.  We spotted porpoises, sea lions, sea otters, puffins, two different humpback whales (one towards the end of the day put on quite a show), and a family of orca (killer) whales.   The mountains surrounding  Resurrection Bay are something to see -- words cannot do justice to these vistas.

We arrive back in Seward at 5:30 pm -- Phil and I walk the half mile to the ship to get some exercise. Embarkation goes smoothly -- our cabin is on Deck Nine starboard towards the stern --  close to all the food venues.

We have dinner at 8 pm in the Rotterdam Dining Room at our assigned table for six -- Sharon and John are on board but Sharon hurt her back before she left so is taking it easy for a few days but John joins us for dinner and it is delightful.

I finish unpacking and fall into bed --- nice to know I don't have to go anyplace tomorrow.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Eight (Sat) - Alyeska Resort - Girdwood, AK

Today we sleep in --- till 6:45 am.  I am definitely getting a cold -- I can feel it coming on.  Oh well -- not much I can do about it -- we'll be getting on the ship tomorrow so I'll be able to rest.

We meet Patte and Dave --- take the shuttle from the resort to the center of Girdwood and to another well recommended breakfast place -- The Silvertip Grill -- opens at 9 am.   We decide to stay on the shuttle while the driver makes his rounds and get a little history lesson on the area.   He drops us next to the Silvertip at The Mercantile -- also know as Carr's Safeway.  It is the smallest Safeway we've ever seen but it is part of the chain of Safeway grocery stores.  We pick up fruit and snacks -- even though we are boarding a cruise ship tomorrow.

While waiting for the Silvertip to open we walk over to the laundromat which is supposed to be most unusual.  Not sure what to expect -- we hesitantly open the door and it's a laundromat.  It does have some nice murals on the wall and ceiling -- and several restrooms and shower areas for people to use but it is a laundromat.  What I found more interesting was one of the customers was there doing his laundry with only a towel around his waist -- apparently he was washing all the clothes he had with him.  

Our breakfast at the Silvertip could not have  been better --- these people up here know how to make great breakfasts.   After breakfast it is raining pretty hard so we take the shuttle back to the resort and have a day of leisure.  I read and take a nap as I now have a full blown cold -- and I bought I down coat on sale.  Is there a better place to get a warm coat than Alaska?

Dinner tonight is at Sakura at the hotel -- it is Asian and wonderful.  After dinner we sit in the lobby for a while trying to stay up past 8:00 pm.   This has been a very busy week but we've had so many worthwhile  experiences.   Tomorrow we are off to Seward to board the Statendam but not before we have a full day in the Bay of Alaska looking at Glaciers and Wildlife.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Seven (Fri) -- Anchorage to Alyeska

Patte, Dave, Phil and I meet at 7:30 am for a walk to the Snow City Cafe -- a highly recommended local breakfast place.   We are seated right away -- all of us had great breakfasts -- not cheap but really good.  As we left there was a line out the door waiting to get in -- this morning our timing was just right.

We continue on our own walking tour around the waterfront of Anchorage passing the statue of Captain Cook as we meander over to the Visitors Center (opens at 9 am) to see about a Trolley Tour.   Again -- good timing -- we got the last four seats on the trolley.   Joe, our driver, has lived in Anchorage all his life -- he shares his knowledge pointing out sights accompanied by bits and pieces of Anchorage history like the critical role played by the Alaska Railroad in the very existence of this city.

We stop at Earthquake Park as Joe tells us about the  devastation on April 27, 1964 caused by the Good Friday Earthquake.   More amazing are the miracles that occurred that day which saved so many lives.   The Pacific Plate shoved itself under the North American Plate causing the earth to shake for 5 minutes and since Anchorage is built on blue clay -- and blue clay liquifies when it shakes -- the earth just swallowed everything up.   Earthquake Park used to be a neighborhood but now buried deep below are 75 homes and the bodies of  3 people who died that day.   It was very moving to look out over this woodland as Joe tells stories of  how people who lived there survived.

Our tour continues  by the airport with water runways for all the seaplanes --- it's like a marina for airplanes  --- we also pass a  2800 square foot house built entirely underground with a year round temperature of 68 degrees.   It was a wonderful hour -- we got a good overview of Anchorage.

We have just enough time to pop into Radio Shack so Phil can replace his lost cell-phone charger and Patte can get a battery charger for her camera.  By noon we are again under Mindy's care boarding a bus to the Alyeska Resort in Girdwood but we have some sights to see along the way.

Jessie, our driver, is a  high school Spanish in the winter.   He is a riot as he regales us with stories all the way to Portage where we board a boat which gets us up close and personal with the Portage Glacier.  We have a Narrator on Board from the State of Alaska -- she gives a tutorial on glaciers  -- how they name them and why glaciers always hold their blue color.   The size of these glaciers is mind boggling -- especially knowing they used to be even bigger.

Back on the bus with Jessie at the wheel Mindy tells us we will be stopping at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center but first there will be a quick detour to see a salmon spawning area.  The salmon in the stream are towards the end of their spawning period so there is not a lot of activity but it is always interesting to see wildlife in their natural habitat.

The Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center is a non-profit dedicated to preserving Alaska's wildlife.  They take in injured and orphaned animals year-round and provide large enclosures as close to their natural habitat as possible.  Any animal that cannot be released into the wild is given a permanent home at the center.  There are brown and black bears in an 18 acre enclosure -- the largest bear enclosure in the U.S.   There are Bison, Musk Ox, Elk, Caribou, a Moose, and many others.  It is a very unique place and a nice surprise.

After a twenty minute ride we arrive at the Alyeska Resort -- a ski resort in the winter where we will spend the next two nights.    It is a lovely, rustic place at the base of a Mt. Alyeska.   There is a cable car to the top of the mountain to see the view or to dine at the Seven Glaciers Restaurant.   Phil had the forethought to make dinner reservations for us a month ago -- Patte ran into a woman in the lobby who offered her money for her dinner reservation -- apparently they are hard to get.

We check in -- our rooms are great with a view of  the grounds and the mountains -- after a brief rest we take the 6:30 pm cable car for our 7:15 dinner reservations.   Seven Glaciers is wonderful -- definitely fine dining.   We are at the top of the mountains --- and are lucky to have the weather on our side --- the views throughout dinner are spectacular.

This has been a wonderful -- long day so after dinner and a brief walk around the hotel -- we are all ready for a good nights sleep.

Thanks for Reading! 

  Pat

Day Six -- Thursday -- Denali to Anchorage, AK

Up at 5 am -- luggage outside the room before meeting Patte and Dave for an 8 am breakfast followed by the Husky Homestead Tour at 8:20 am.

Husky Homestead is owned by Jeff King.  Originally from California Jeff came to Alaska when he was 19 and never went back -- he is now 57.   He runs this kennel and has participated in the Iditarod 23 times -- winning 4 times.

We are picked up by Ellen (Jeff's significant other) in a mini-bus seating 22 people.  Ellen explains that we will be greeted by the puppies and encouraged to hold and cuddle them -- next we will have a demonstration of the dogs pulling an ATV (instead of a sled) while we have an explanation of what goes into training the dogs -- and lastly we will hear from Jeff  King who will talk about his experiences in the Iditarod.

For this excursion there are four mini-bus loads of people -- we are indeed greeted by about 20 puppies some very young and others a little older -- all very friendly and waiting to be held and cuddled.

Next Ellen (Jeff's youngest daughter) provides the narration for the harnessing and dog running demonstration.  She is terrific as she explains how the puppies are trained and gradually introduced to being part of a team.  All the while -- the adult dogs are going crazy watching other dogs getting to pull the ATV -- but once the ATV and the team are out of sight all becomes quiet until they return.

We are next invited to an indoor facility with bleacher seating.  Jeff comes to talk about his experiences with the Iditarod.  He refreshes our memories by explaining that the Iditarod is an 1100 mile race from Anchorage to Nome Alaska -- always beginning the first weekend of March.  Jeff sees himself as the caretaker of the team -- and acknowledges that the team does all the work.  However, he gets very little sleep for the 9 to 14 days it takes to finish this race since making sure the dogs are well rested and healthy is his main concern.

Jeff King is a wonderful speaker and clearly loves what he does.  In the winter -- the entire Denali area shuts down -- only about 12 families live through the winter.  Fairbanks is the closest place to get groceries.  It is a very different life.

As she drives us back to the hotel Ellen tells us that during the summer they have about 12 people working for them but in the winter only a couple of part timers and she and Jeff care for and train the dogs.

This was an excellent excursion -- everyone loved it.

By 12:35 pm -- we are on the McKinley Explorer for a 7 to 8 hour trip to Anchorage.  Lunch and dinner are served on the train.   We are not invited to the dining room till about 2:00 pm.  As we sit down to order -- Phil orders the Wild Alaskan Smoked Salmon Chowder and the Seafood Salad Sandwich.  The waitress says they are out of the chowder so he says he'll just have the sandwich. The rest of us order butternut squash soup and salads.   The waitress comes back in a few minutes and tells Phil they have no more Seafood Salad Sandwiches.  Having enough, Phil decides not to have lunch.   My soup and salad are mediocre at best.  They do a better job with breakfast than they do with lunch.  Phil and I decide not to have dinner on the train and take our chances in Anchorage.

Our Train Guide, Trey, is a wonderful narrator making sure we don't miss anything along the route --  he also has dinner suggestions in Anchorage. 

Arrival in Anchorage at 7:55 pm -- and promptly taken to the Westmark Hotel downtown. After checking our rooms, we go in search of a restaurant settling on Club Paris on 5th Avenue-- a ten minute walk from the hotel.  Patte and Dave come along even though they did have dinner on the train.  Club Paris is a wonderful local steakhouse that has been around for 50 years.   It is a good choice.

After a nice walk back to the hotel -- it is time for bed -- we are only here one night.  Tomorrow we take a bus to The Alyeska Resort in Girdwood, AK.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Five -- Wednesday -- Denali, AK

Up at 5 am to meet Patte and Dave for a 6 am breakfast and 6:40 am Tundra Wilderness Tour.  It is raining but mild -- in the 40's.  We will be touring Denali National Park looking for wild animals on the only road that goes through the park --- tour time is 7 to 8 hours.

We meet our driver, Mary Jane, who is a hoot -- she is driving a National Park Service bus which resembles a school bus but not as comfortable -- there is a box lunch on everyone's seat which includes the makings of a cheese and reindeer sausage sandwich.   The bus is full -- the rain has stopped and off we go.

By 7:40 am we have seen a moose and shortly after our 8:45 am rest stop we see six bears (one mother and two baby cubs--and just across the field another mother with two older cubs).   This was a great start to the day.   We continue driving through this spectacular park with Mary Jane narrating and providing us with all sorts of information.

Denali National Park is 6.2 million acres -- the same size as Massachusetts.

Do you know the difference between a Reindeer and a Caribou?  Not much of a difference -- a Reindeer is a domesticated Caribou -- except that of course we all know Reindeer can fly.

What is the difference between Antlers and Horns?  Horns are forever -- Antlers fall off and grow back annually.  Caribou antlers are really heavy -- we were able to hold some antlers at one of the rest stops in Denali --  I don't know how these animals keep their heads up.

About 11 am we stopped at the Stoney Hill Overlook -- there was Mt. McKinley -- again through the clouds but the peak was visible.  This is when we turned around heading back over the same road --which meant we had to go through the Polychrome area again.  This is really scary -- we are on the side of the mountain with barely enough room for two vehicles to pass.

Even though we were going over the same territory -- it looked different and felt different.  We had more animal sightings maybe because the weather had improved.   Just past Noon -- we had an amazing bear sighting as we were waiting on the road for something up ahead -- someone on our bus saw this bear coming down the embankment right next to us.    The bear proceeded as if we weren't there meandering in the direction from which we had come down the middle of the road.

Mary Jane said her record for bear sightings in one day is 12 (she's been driving this route for 11 years).   We ended our trip having seen 12 Bears -- several Caribou -- a couple of Moose -- quite a few arctic ground squirrels and in the far distance up in the mountains several Dall Sheep.  

We arrived at the hotel about 2:30 pm -- long but good day.   Phil and I walked across the street to check out the shops -- nothing worthwhile but we needed the exercise.  

We met Patte and Dave for dinner at the Nenana View Grille on the property.  It was pretty good and convenient.   We sat for a while after dinner in the Nenana View Bar to enjoy this view which I cannot justifiably describe -- it needs to be experienced.    

We tried to stay up but were all tucked in by about 9 pm.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Four -- Tuesday -- Fairbanks to Denali

Awake at 5 am -- luggage outside the door by 6 am -- and by 8 am we are on the McKinley Explorer for a four hour train ride to the McKinley Chalet Resort in Denali Park, AK  -- just outside Denali National Park.

We are in a domed car with great views -- seating is on the second floor -- dining on the first floor.

Dining is in shifts since the dining car seats about half of the second floor seats.  We are invited to the dining car in the first shift.   For breakfast:  Patte had Breakfast Burrito, Dave had Flapjacks, Phil had Crabcake Benedict and I had an Egg Dish with bacon, cheese and tomato.  All dishes came with fresh fruit and all were pretty good.  The coffee was delicious.

Back upstairs, our Train Guide is Laura -- who narrates our trip pointing out highlights along the way.

We pass through several small towns including Nenana where there is a contest each year to see who can guess when the river will start to break-up -- announcing Spring is here.

We are fortunate to have Mt. McKinley visible today -- it is behind a few clouds but we can see the peak.  We continue through the Alaska Mountain Range arriving at the depot in Denali about Noon.

This resort is huge and owned by Holland America -- we are in the Canyon Lodge.  Our room has a king bed and is on the 2nd floor.  A very steep hill separates us from the main chalet from which all the excursions leave and restaurants and shops are located -- good exercise.  

Once settled Patte, Dave and I take the shuttle to the National Park Service Visitors Center to view their extensive exhibit on the history of Denali National Park.   Phil checks out the rest of the area -- and we meet back at the Chalet.

By 5:45 we are on a shuttle taking us to the Black Diamond Horse Drawn Covered Wagon Adventure.

Since we are a little late -- the last covered wagon is pulling out and there is no room for us so we get to ride in an ATV to catch up to the second wagon where there is room.   We went from one extreme on the ATV to another on the covered wagon -- like traveling a 100 years in a few minutes.  

The covered wagon trip was fun.  Tim, our guide, was a little too full of himself but he was entertaining.  Sean, our driver, was from Southern California -- in Alaska for the summer ---  he's an educator in the winter.  Our horses Joe and Mike were great and so strong.    After 45 minutes we arrive at the Pavillion where a wonderful dinner is served -- ribs, chicken, salmon with potato salad, cole slaw and blueberry cobbler -- it is blueberry season in Alaska.

It was a fun excursion allowing us to see and learn more about the wilderness surrounding Denali National Park.  We arrive back to the Canyon Lodge about 9 pm -- exhausted.   

Tomorrow we will spend the day in Denali National Park.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

  

Day Three -- Monday -- Fairbanks, AK

We meet Patte and Dave for breakfast in the hotel at 8 am before setting out to explore Fairbanks on foot.

Phil found our first stop -- the Clay Street Cemetery -- which is quite old and a genealogist's dream.  Just inside the entrance is a large bulletin board with a diagram of the entire place and names on each plot.  The cemetery is located in an eclectic section of town -- several of the homes are old cabins and houses built in the 1930's which have been moved here and renovated.  Patte and I both love cemeteries so it is nice of Phil and Dave to indulge us.

We head back to the Morris Thompson Visitors Center to view a film on the science of  the Aurora Borealis  --  why it happens and why it can only be seen at certain times.   It is doubtful that we will see the Aurora since the cloud cover is low and it is light till quite late.  Also at the Visitors Center are some excellent exhibits on the history of Fairbanks  -- particularly the very early days.  As we leave to stroll along the Chena Riverwalk we pass through the Welcoming Arch of Antlers.

Our next stop is a small Community Museum known for its exhibits on the gold mining days around the turn of the 19th century -- and the 1967 flood which devastated the city causing quite a bit of damage to downtown Fairbanks.

After discussion we decide to walk to Pioneer Park -- rather than take the bus -- a couple of miles outside of town.  This is an area -- although somewhat hokey -- has some interesting things to see.   The park has:   Gold Rush Town -- Pioneer Air Museum -- Tanana Valley Railroad Museum -- a Train which travels the perimeter of the park -- A Mining Section -- and lots more.   We get a quick bite to eat at a Greek place inhabiting one of the restored cabins.  After taking the train two loops around the park we visit the Nenana, a paddle boat in dry dock with dioramas of the mining villages surrounding Fairbanks displayed on her first floor.  We take a look at the train car used by President Warren Harding in 1923 when he drove the golden stake for the Alaska Railroad.  Lastly we visit the mining section with the steam shovel which was moved to Alaska for use in the mines after serving in the construction of the Panama Canal.

We bid farewell to Pioneer Park and take the bus -- free for seniors-- back to the hotel in time to meet with Mindy, our Holland America Rep, and have a quick rest.

About 4:30 pm we head out to the Downtown Market which is not unlike the Farmer's Market ---even some of the vendors are the same.  It is a beautiful clear day so it is fun to walk around the booths and admire the fabulous produce and handmade items.  After poking into an antique mall for a half hour we decide to go to dinner early.

Tonight we are dining at Lavalle's just near the Downtown Market.  Lavalle's promotes itself as having over 3,000 wines -- no worries about having wine with dinner tonight.  Liana is our waitress and she answers all of our questions about this wonderful menu with so many appealing dishes.
They have a mystery wine by the glass for $5.50 -- it can be anything -- bartender's choice.  I give it a try and really enjoy it.  Liana gives us the name:  Villa Pozzi Nero D'Avola (Sicily) -- I highly recommend it.

After dinner we walk back to the hotel on this beautiful evening marveling at all we have seen in the past two days.  Tomorrow we take the train to Denali National Park.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day Two -- Sunday -- Fairbanks, AK

Sunday, we are up in time to walk to the 7:30 am Mass at Immaculate Conception Church in downtown Fairbanks.   This small church, located on the Chena River, was built in 1904 and at some point moved in winter across the Chena to its current location.  It is a 15 minute brisk walk from our hotel -- mainly due to the 35 degree temperature.

The service is most enjoyable with Father Fred Bayler-- a big man with a welcoming personality -- officiating.  At the end of Mass Fr. Fred asked if  there were visitors in the congregation -- so Phil and I introduce ourselves and Patte and Dave do the same -- but Dave adds that he and Patte are celebrating 40 years of marriage.    Well -- Fr. Fred cannot let that go so he has them come up for a blessing and then the entire congregation gives a blessing.  It was wonderful --- people were coming up to Patte and Dave congratulating them.   After Mass we had a nice chat with Fr. Fred and found out he went to Pope John Seminary in Weston, MA -- he was ordained just over 2 years ago.  Fr. Fred looks to be in his late fifties.

Our next stop is the Morris Thompson Cultural Visitors Center where we find great info --- including a place to have breakfast -- The Diner.    We walk to The Diner --- we are waited on by Jolene who's husband was born in Barnstable, MA.  Weather is still cool but the sun is shining and it appears to be getting warmer.

Since the buses do not run on Sunday -- we must depend on private transportation.   The visitor center guide recommended Airlink Shuttle & Tours -- I call, speak to Jeff (the owner) and proceed to tell him our schedule for the day.  Jeff is not interested in our schedule and does not want to commit to any prearranged times.   He says,  "Call when you need a pick-up and it will be $14 for four people" -- no matter where we go in the area.  So that's what we do -- twice Jeff picks us up -- he's also the dispatcher.  The other times he sends Linda and Jade.   It works out just fine.

Our first stop is the Farmer's Market --- which is quite successful on Wednesday and Saturday but has not caught on for Sunday.  There are a few vendors -- Patte and I purchase local cookbooks -- Dave buys a sweatshirt -- Patte buys a cute spider to hang from her rearview mirror --- and Phil walks around.   We call Jeff.

Our next stop is Riverboat Discovery -- we have reservations on the 2:00 pm cruise.  Jeff picks us up depositing us at the riverboat dock which is a huge "general store" and restaurant.  We embark on Discovery III -- a four level riverboat -- for a three hour cruise along the Chena River.   Captain Ryan Binkley is at the helm -- his grandfather started this operation by transporting goods on the river at the turn of the 19th century.

The cruise is well done -- although opportunities for guests to spend money are plentiful --  it does not feel like it.  Free coffee, donuts and water are all over the boat as well as salmon dip and crackers at the end of the cruise.   Highlights of the cruise:  a close up view of a 1951 sea plane taking off and landing right next to the boat -- twice,  a stop at Trailbreaker Kennels originally founded by Susan Butcher (from Boston) who won the Iditatrod several years ago, and an hour-long stop at a mocked-up Athabascan Indian Village with guides and free time to wander the site which included a fish camp from before the Athabascans were influenced by Western ways.   We thoroughly enjoyed this excursion and learned a lot about the Alaskan way of life -- before and after western influence.

It has been a long day --   we are looking forward to dinner at the Wolf Run Restaurant to celebrate Patte and Dave's 40th Anniversary.  We call Jeff.

We are picked up by Linda, an interesting person with roots in Sudbury, MA -- she has studied her genealogy.  Upon arrival at the restaurant -- it appears they may not be open so Linda waits till we give her the ok to leave.  It is an odd place -- looks like a house ---- there is construction going on.  Several people have told us this place is known for their great desserts -- in we go.   It's early ---- we have our choice of tables and pick one by the plastic-covered window just across from the fireplace that is not burning.   The chairs are very comfortable.

We are perusing the menus trying to decide on a bottle of wine -- our waitress brings water and asks if we'd like anything to drink --- we say we are choosing a bottle of wine.   This is when she announces that their liquor license is "up in the air" since they are transitioning to new ownership -- meaning no wine for dinner.   I think the four of us just stared at her for a full minute with our mouths wide open. After discussion we decided to stay -- what choice did we have?   Linda has left ---  we are not within walking distance of anything ---  and there would be those great desserts we've been hearing about.

Our meals are excellent and come out very hot -- but the service is spotty.  The waitress is lovely and offers a complimentary dessert to celebrate Patte and Dave's Anniversary -- but she does not seem to understand the basics of serving dinner.  The dessert is beyond our expectations -- a very large piece of chocolate cake with three different layers of chocolate in the middle.   However -- it would have been nice if the dinner dishes had been cleared before we had dessert -- we just piled them toward the end of the table and enjoyed.

Time to call Jeff!  This time Jade picks us up and deposits us at the Westmark Hotel while providing  tips on what we might do tomorrow.   We've been gone for over 12 hours.  

We are exhausted -- even without wine -- but how can we say no to the "jam session" at the hotel billed as   "Alaska's Opry Stars presents Alaska's Ambassador of Country Music Earl Hughes and Special Guests".   There are three guys in their sixties -- very talented -- in the Minto Room --- I last about 30 minutes before my eyes just won't stay open any longer.

A great first day in Fairbanks, Alaska.

Thanks for Reading!

Pat

Day One -- Saturday -- Fairbanks, AK

We arrived in Fairbanks about 8:00 pm on Saturday --- the airport makes the one in Boise, ID look like a thriving metropolis.   Once we retrieved our luggage we spotted a "Holland America" desk with people milling around.   Patte and I went over to investigate and sure enough they were happy to take us to our hotel and deliver our luggage to our room.    

We are staying at the Westmark -- walking distance to downtown so the location is great.  The Westmark is a newer hotel -- like an Alaskan Hampton Inn without the free breakfast but they do have free wifi.

Although we are exhausted (4 hour time difference) -- we decide we better not go right to bed.  A discussion about the next day's activities is in order so so we meet in the bar -- Red Lantern-- for a glass of wine.  Jason, our waiter, joins the conversation and is most helpful about the area and what to do and not do during our stay.

Finally -- we can't keep our eyes open any longer so we're off to our rooms and find our luggage has arrived.   It has been a good day!

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

What's to come!

On Saturday, August 24th -- Patte, Dave, Phil and I are off on a land tour of Alaska taking us from Fairbanks through Denali National Park to Anchorage and on to Seward where we embark on Holland America's Statendam.  We'll meet up with Sharon and John on the ship.  We'll cruise the inland passage to Vancouver where we'll spend two days exploring this cosmopolitan city in British Columbia.  We hope you'll join us as we trek through the land and cruise on the sea surrounding our 49th state.  

If you want to be notified when there is a new post  --- just put your e-mail in the box to right.  The newest post will be sent to your inbox  -- however it arrives without photos.  If you want to see the pictures (let's face it photos are the best part) --- click on the link at the bottom of the post and it will take you directly to the blog page with all the photos.

Let me know what you think and I hope you enjoy coming along on our trip to Alaska.

Thanks for reading!

Pat